When planting trees, one thing you need to take into consideration before selecting a location is the mature height and spread of the tree. Though you could be tempted by all of the different species that are available, take care to choose carefully, particularly if you have the average size yard, because crowding spoils the growth and appearance of trees, particularly specimen trees.
It is typically most economical to plant young trees. Planting an adult tree is difficult and will be costly if done professionally. This could justify the expense, however, in case a mature tree is badly needed for a terrace or for screening. What Tree Surgeons Stevenage are paying or is the time it takes a smaller tree to mature.
The optimum time to transplant a tree is in the first spring or late fall. It is possible to plant trees in full leaf using wilt-proof sprays that seal the leaves against moisture loss until the roots are established, but this costs money and entails greater risks than buying your tree and planting it in planting season.
When planting a tree over 6 feet in height, it will suffer less setback if moved with a bur lapped root ball.
Because the root system needs fertile soil when it is planted, special steps should be taken. Dig the hole 2 feet deep and at the very least 1 foot wider compared to the full spread of the roots in each direction. The bottom should be broken up with a pitchfork and thoroughly mixed with peat, leaf mold, loam, etc.
Manure can be used sparingly and should only be spread on the top of the hole or it can burn the roots. The deeper you cultivate the hole, the higher for your tree. Once planted, you can cultivate around it but not under the roots. In the event that you hit a layer of creating debris or clay, which is never uncommon near a house, you must remove this layer and replace it with good soil, or better still, garden humus.
Should you be planting a bare root seedling, you should protect it by "heeling in" a vacant flower bed where it can be kept before planting so long as it is dormant.
This implies laying it on its side at an angle to the bottom and within the roots with good soil. While you are ready to go on it from the soil, give it a mud bath or "puddle" it. This protects the roots from contact with air before planting and also from any air pockets which may exist around the roots after planting. After filling the hole to the depth required by the roots of the plant, flood it with water to settle the soil at the bottom; when it has drained away, place the tree in the positioning in which it really is to grow and fill in the soil around it.
Work the soil around the roots using a stick or shovel handle, and make certain there are no air pockets. Spread the roots naturally, planting the tree at around the same depth as its former location. Once the hole is two-thirds, of just how full, tramp it down and fill with water again. Fill in the remaining soil without tramping it down, so that the water will drain towards the trunk.
A balled-and-bur lapped tree is one which has been dug with a good ball of soil in which it has been growing in, its root system is thus amply covered and protected. The ball is held set up by a secure covering of burlap and twine. To plant it, set the tree in a hole slightly lower than it stood in the nursery. Work the soil beneath this depth, as described previously.
If the ground is dry, fill the hole with water and let it soak in before planting. Slice the burlap at the very top once you put the tree set up, and roll it back a few inches. You'll plant the burlap and all. The burlap will soon rot away.
Following the tree is planted you can cut it back sharply. If necessary brace the tree with wire ropes. For the first year, the more cultivation round the tree the better, keeping weeds away, too, with straw or mulch, in the spring and fall can help keep carefully the moisture in the ground.